Ciao Bella Roma

Women in Advertisements 2

I missed posting yesterday due to work. After a full day of meetings, we went on a bus tour of the city and then dinner and bar hopping. I got to bed at 2:30 and had to get up at 7am for meetings. Yesterday was a bust for exploring and seeing things on my own.

Generations of the Fiat 500

Today was a new day. After my morning meetings, I slept off my night of multiple over indulgences and headed out to the Trastevere area. It is across the Tiber river and is not the posh, idyllic beauty of the Centro Storico. It is grittier, dirtier, and has graffiti on the walls. It has tight, dark walkways that spill out into beautiful small plazas. The people are not the wealthy, but they have a bohemian grit that drives the pulse of the area. I found many small art galleries, book stores and great little eateries. All of this was accompanied by the soft tap, tap, tap percussion of the rain on my umbrella. At times I felt like my umbrella became a permanent attachment to my body.

Feels Like Telegraph in Berkeley, but With Fur

My goal for this neighborhood was to get a feel for that lifestyle and also to see a recommended Bernini sculpture called The Blessed Ludovica Albertoni (1674) in the Chiesa Di San Francesco a Rippa I had heard that it could compete in sensuality with The Ecstacy of St. Teresa that I saw a few days ago. For me, it does.

The Ecstasy of St. Teresa on a Rainy Day

When I saw The Ecstacy, I thought I was watching a romantic sensual climax. Ludovica Albertoni made me feel like I was peeking into her room as she was having a beautiful private moment. It was quiet, dark, and full of mood. My photos' quality is crap, but I hope you can see some of the erotic detail from them. I also found a photo by Susan Sanders that is much better.

Too Grainy, Too Shaky, but it Wasn't Her Fault

The Blessed Ludovica Albertoni
Susan Sanders

After doing a little research, I found out the history of Ludovica Albertoni. Here is a brief excerpt from Wikipedia.

She is also known as Louisa Albertoni; Ludovica Albertoni Cetera. She was born to a wealthy and prominent family, and married to Giacomo de Citara. She was the mother of three, but was widowed in 1506. As a Franciscan tertiary, she spent her fortune and ruined her health in caring for the poor. She was renowned for her religious ecstasies, and became known as a miracle worker, and, according to accounts, had the gift of levitation.

Ludovica is best known for the famous sculpture by Gian Lorenzo Bernini housed in the church of San Francesco a Ripa in Rome. The recumbent statue captures Blessed Ludovica in her death throes, portraying her as suffering but also in the light of her religious ecstasies as she awaits union with God. It is believed that she experienced a special nuptial union with Christ as portrayed in Bernini's work.

So, Bernini was trying to capture "her death throes, portraying her as suffering but also in the light of her religious ecstasies". He sure liked to capture lots of ecstasies. It makes me think of a French term for orgasm, Le petite mort, of the little death. I've already written about this little death before so no need to expand here. It does look like that is what she is enjoying as well.

Mort or Le Petite Mort?

Along the way, I found another church and saw a small relief sculpture that had a surprise for me. It looks like another woman in ecstasy. The Catholics of Rome sure did like their woman to be in ecstasy in art. I enjoy these pieces today and feel that it can be art to see someone as they are in that moment of le petite mort.

Good Times

Sadly, I have to say "Ciao" to the this magic city tomorrow morning. I am ready to go and look forward to going home, but I know I need to return here. The gelato is addicting and the city is now an itch that can never be scratched away.

I Was Tying My Shoes When She Asked Me For the Time

Photo Notes - I have more images to edit. Sadly, I only have my old 5mp Nikon with me so the images are not of the technical quality that I prefer. That means no prints, but I still enjoy them.

I think I have a crush on Renata. Here is another one of her campaign posters.

Women in Advertisements 2

Travel, Travails, Trevi and The Sweet Life

Original Movie Poster

If you did not read a post of mine from a few weeks ago, you missed the reason I am in Rome. On top of getting to enjoy the great sights, eating wonderful food and seeing beauty in both art and human form, I have to work. Today was the first day of a conference on global compliance laws for pharmaceuticals. It was about as dull as dust. To be honest, I don't know why they had to fly all of us to Rome for something we could have met in New Jersey for. That would have saved money and the environment a bit of wear and tear since most of us came from San Francisco or the greater New York area.

Toward the end of the seventh hour, I looked longingly outside and saw the rain had stopped. We got out an hour later. I ran up to my room, grabbed my camera, guide book scarf, coat, and map and headed out. I wanted to see the Trevi Fountain again. My visual taste of it yesterday was not enough.

Fontana di Trevi

According to my guide book, Rome Encounter by the Lonely Planet, they say of the Trevi Fountain:

Rococo extravaganza Trevi Foutain (Fontana di Trevi) was immortalized by Anita Ekberg's midnight dip in La Vita Dolce. Designed by Nicola Salvi in 1732, it depicts Neptune's chariot being led by Tritons with sea horses - one wild, one docile - representing the various moods of the sea.

Docile

I think the various moods of the sea horses symbolize the conflict in all humans. We are broken docile animals that society makes of us as we shuffle about our daily chores of pulling others' chariots, but many of us still have wild desires, needs, anger, and passions that tear at us to live again.

Wild

According to local lore, if a visitor tosses a one coin into the fountain, they will return to Rome. Tossing in two coins will bring a new romance. Tossing in three coins will bring a marriage or a divorce. I wonder what I have in my pocket.

As you can tell by the scale of the fountain, it isn't subtle. It is bold, in your face, maybe even gaudy and goddamn I love it. I love it when art can be big, balls out and unavoidable. Screw being subtle for all art. Sometimes you just have to make a spectacle that draws a blond beauty to go splashing about in its waters as it did in La Vita Dolce.

Below is the famous scene from La Vita Dolce. It is a stunning piece. Both actors are beautiful and give a brief taste of a time that died away before I was born. Now that I just watched this scene again, it is interesting how she baptizes him just moments before they almost kiss. How transgressive is that? She is taking the role of a priest (baptism) to cleanse him before that sensual (and to some, sinful) moment.



Sadly, my Rome Roamin' is slowing down to tiny half hour excursions until this conference ends.

Wet, Sensual, and Solitude - Following in the Steps of Dr. L - Part 2

Rome Roamin'

I woke up a little later than usual this morning . After bundling up in my wool coat and muffler, I headed out and instantly felt a few rain drops hit my head. I looked up to my hotel where my umbrella sat on the desk and uttered, "Fuck it."

Near a street corner I found a campaign poster for Renata Polverini who is running for president of the province. Even Italian politicians are fashionable. I do not know a thing about her politics, but her slogan "con te" (with you) makes me wish she was with me. So sexy. I like that a politician's sexy feminine confidence is not anything shocking or detracting to have in a poster for her campaign.

Ummm... damn, ... I can't stop looking at her

I found a local eatery and ordered my cappuccino, orange juice, and sandwich and planned out my day. With the rain lightly sprinkling, I definitely did not feel like visiting the Forum and other Roman ruins. Instead I headed out to get more of a Bernini fix.

Less than fifteen minutes from my hotel, I found Chiesa di Santa Maria Della Vittoria, home of the Angels and Demons darling, Ecstasy of St. Teresa. With the dark skies over Rome, the inside of the church was dark and full of mood. Sadly though, my photos were blurry and could not capture the beauty of the sculpture.

The Ecstasy of St. Teresa on a Rainy Day

I looked at it for awhile and absorbed the details as the dark church disappeared around me. The eyes of the figures tell the story. His are showing his desire to take her, hers are closed in ecstasy. Her form is sensual as her ecstasy takes her completely. The most erotic moment in the sculpture is her bare foot. Her big toe is slightly tightening. Having seen that sweet moment in my life where a spasm courses through her body, I had to smile and be happy for St. Teresa. It is funny how such a sensual and simple part of art is more erotic than the porn found on the internet.

Photographer unknown

Photographer unknown

I left the church to head to the Galleria Borghese. It is in a beautiful park called the Villa Borghese. I walked for twenty minutes to it in the sprinkling rain to discover it is closed on Mondays. I sighed and turned around to the beautiful park surrounding it. After consulting my map, I found a route through the park to my hotel near the Spanish Steps.

Through a Damp Park

Along the way I heard a saxophone playing in the rain. I gave the musician a couple of euros and sat on a bench beside him. In my journal I captured the moment -

Nothing finer than listening to saxophone in a park in the rain. I wonder what Joe is doing in NOLA?

Playing "Auld Lang Syne"

My Bench, My Friend

I don't mind the rain, in fact I enjoy it. Sitting in a peaceful park listening to the solo sax and taking in the moment means more to me than walking around a roman ruin. I closed my eyes and let my body absorb the life around me. Through the music, I could also hear a bird, a couple stroll by holding hands and talking softly and my presence there.

Sharing the Solitude

The musician's song ended and I opened my eyes and headed away. Through the park I noticed so many of the statues' heads were missing. I am curious why they are like that.

Where did it go?

I found the statue below of what I must assume are brothers in war. It felt like experiencing this tragic private moment with them. It matched the mood of the rain.


Near the park's exit, I found this couple walking out. It reminded me of how the rain makes the world shrink to what is near you. Having someone you are physically, emotionally, sexually close to walking with you is all that you experience in this type of weather.

Next

The Capital of the World in the Rain

Photo notes - all photos except of the close detail images of St. Teresa are mine.

Thanks!- Thank you Dr. L for a warm post about this trip over at What We Saw Today.

In The Steps of Dr. L part 1

Piazza Navone

Dr. L of What We Saw Today fame gave me some tips of things to see in Rome. Today I took my first "Dr. L" walk. Here are her suggestions:

Visit the Campo di Fiori for me (I lived there in an apartment with a market view some years ago). Across the street from the Campo is Piazza Navone with the fabulous Bernini fountains, great gelato, and artists hanging out to sit and sketch.

This morning I headed out from my hotel right next to the Spanish Steps and set out to see the Piazza Navone. The first thing I learned is that it is easy to walk around Rome, if you have a map. I got there and had breakfast within 30 minutes of my departure. Below are some photos of the plaza. The main center fountain was surrounded by scaffolding for restoration, but I could still see most of it. The rest of the statues were breathtaking.

Interesting Stuff in a Store at the Piazza

Piazza Navone

First Fountain - 1

First Fountain - 2
Fountain - 2

After that, I walked over to the Vatican. I am not Catholic and not a devout Christian. I would say I am a pretty weak one at best. I was standing at one of the big holy places and did not feel it. I did see statues, architecture and art that made me thank the Pope and the church for putting it here. I attended a mass in Latin and tried to remember what I could from my high school classes. After mass I went back into St. Peter's square, the Pope spoke from a window, way up on building overlooking the square. That is the closest I have been to world leader. I soon left. I was getting hungry and walked back toward the Piazza Navone.

On the Trail

On the way to lunch I found this sign and knew I was on Dr. L's trail again. I followed my map and a few minutes later popped out in the Campo di Fiori. I imagined Dr. L living here and walking about. I wish she was here to tell me about her adventures and show me some of her favorite secret places. Here are some photos from the Campo di Fiori.

Compo di Fiori

Campo di Fiori Statue - He Looks Pissed

On the way back to the hotel I stopped by the Pantheon and a few other sites. I think the people sitting on the Spanish Steps are very photogenic and beautiful.

It is now 4pm and my jet lag is starting to hit again. I may take a nap and then make a fun evening out.

On the Spanish Steps with a Map Like Everyone Else

In Country

The Spanish Steps - 012310

I am so tired, I can barely type this and load the pics, so I will just load a few photos of the area around my hotel. I am 30 seconds from the Spanish Steps. I love it here.

My Hotel 012310

A Caddie in Rome?

Window Shopping

They Know How To Dress Well in Rome

Spanish Steps

Smoke Break

Off World

Prosperina
Bernini

I am going to be tracing the footsteps of Caesar, Romulus, and Dr. L. My flight leaves this afternoon. I hope to write from while on the trip, but I am not sure if the hotel has wireless. Have a fun week and see you on the other side of the trip, if not sooner.

The Femme Fatale

Angelina Jolie
Dan Winters

In guy world there is the Ginger or Maryann question. Which would you choose from Gilligan's Island, Ginger or Maryann? If you don't know these characters, Maryanne is the wholesome and pretty farm girl. Ginger is the femme fatale. The modern version of this question, Angelina Jolie or Jennifer Aniston?

Femme fatales are one of my weaknesses. I don't know if it is the drama, the crazy passion, the dark sultry looks, or all of these combined. What makes me, and many other men, desire these dangerous relationships? They rarely end happy. Most of the time they end with things broken, cars keyed, and reputations hurt.

My first college girlfriend was a femme fatale. That was a very short and passionate relationship with too much drama, but the time together sizzled. I haven't had one since.

I think the male version of femme fatales are the bad boys. In high school, so many of the girls I wanted to date liked the bad boys. What makes us desire femme fatales and bad boys? The danger and passion is definitely a draw. Maybe we hope we can experience living on the edge through them.

Here is a song from a diva femme fatale that I am attracted too.




v

Avatar - Is the New Communist Movement Red or Blue?

Zoe Saldana as Neytiri in Avatar.

I went to see my best friend (since 7th grade) Steve and his parents last week in San Luis Obispo (SLO), CA. SLO is a liberal college town (Cal Poly SLO) a dozen miles from California's central coast. On Thursday, after many dropped hints from Steve's mom, we went to see Avatar. She and her husband had seen it and wanted us to see it with them again. After seeing the movie, I noticed the juxtaposition of where I was staying and what I had just watched.

While visiting, I stayed as a guest of my friend's step dad, Dave, on the local national guard base. We all had to show IDs to get on base. When they saw his retired military ID (full-bird colonel), they would go to attention, salute, and say "Welcome back sir." He then returned their salute and we would drive on.

Nighttime at Camp San Luis Obispo National Guard Base

All the roads are made of reinforced concrete so tanks and heavy equipment wont damage them as they motor about. Everything is clean and ready. As I looked about at the soldiers doing their jobs, I wondered how many had been to war, probably most. I felt I owed them respect and thanks for doing what they did, even if I don't think we should be in as deep as we are. They kind of got the shitty end of that stick. Their professionalism was appreciated as I saw them go about.

Avatar

I will not go into the story line since you can find a decent summary everywhere. My reactions though were predictable. I cheered for the Na'vi and despised the corporation and military that were threatening them. I wanted to personally save the planet and ride one of those cool flying lizards things. I had a crush on Neytiri (played by the beautiful Zoe Saldana who also played Uhura in the newest Star Trek movie) and loved watching her. I drank the blue koolaid.

A few days later, I read an interesting article at Slate on how the conservatives despise the movie and its messages. I highly recommend you read it since it covers how the Right are attacking this blockbuster.

In the article, it talks about how many of James Cameron's movies have progressive/liberal themes running through them. They mock the hubris of the mighty empires and how the simple, the romantic, the real people will prevail. I agree with many of these themes and appreciate them.

One part of the article mentions a critic who was shocked that the movie audience cheered when the American soldiers were getting killed in the movie. To be fair though, the characters are mercenaries, not American soldiers. With that in mind I had to think about the real soldiers I saw at the base. I hope in my heart they would know what is right and their leaders would as well. I hope they are not sent in harms way to hurt others just to earn the overseers more money. I wonder how they feel about the movie.

After a few days reflection, here is my take on the movie. It is a Star Wars moment for sci-fi and special effects movie. Now that we have seen what can be done, we are going to expect better stories matched to visuals as good or better than seen in this movie.

I have only seen two movies with CGI characters that had soul in their eyes. Gollum from the second Lord of the Rings movie and Avatar. Usually CGI characters' eyes are flat and dead. This brings up the question if we will need real actors in the future, or just voices. My vote is that real actors will always be needed in the same way as real trumpets sound so much better than digital ones in recordings.

As for the story, I give it a B. It has some original minor story lines, but the main story has been told in countless books and movies. In many of these stories, a soldier or explorer joins the "natives" and becomes one with them to battle his old allies or compatriots. In A Man Called Horse, Richard Harris showed us the most painful initiation into the culture I have seen. You can also see this theme in Dances With Wolves, Little Big Man, and many others. It is a story told many times in many different ways, but is it a story worthy of being told again and again?

Another gripe that I've read about is that in Avatar, and the other movies listed above, the "natives" are always saved at the end by the spirit, bravery, and leadership of the "foreigner." Does this mean the natives would not have accomplished this victory without the intervention of the great white savior? I can understand why some criticize this movie for that message.

Avatar is beautiful sensory experience. It is well worth the extra admission and I want to see it again on an IMAX screen. The story is old, but very well told. I highly recommend it if you want to feel your liberal righteousness achieve victory. I enjoyed it for that. I just hope the DVD version has the rumored "un-edited" love scene that would have made it an R instead of the family friendly PG 13. The Na'vi are so damn sexy. What??? Was that racist (or species-ist) to say that?????

For a very well written take on Avatar, please read Stephen's review over at Magic Flute.